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They’re more the same than ever now that the 2022 M6 exists with a brass body and the same rangefinder mechanism as the MP.

Thanks man! 👍

$1000 for an M6! 😢

Way too much contrast, everything in the blacks is just gone. I assume these are not straight from camera?

Could you do a video on how to scan film or how to pick a lab tat scans film?

Does the Leica MP have a titanium plated version with Ostrich/Emu leather like the M6?

Great video

As per the Leica MP manual that came with the box, you just have to insert the film in the three point prong, and close the bottom plate. Afterwhich, advance the film three times until the arrow aligns to 1 while making sure the rewind knob is rotating as you advance. That simple. :) No need to align the film in the sprocket, no need to adjust it anywhere, etc. Since the Leica M4 onwards, loading was designed to make it quick and easy.

Canon VT Deluxe for the win.👍📷🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟

If you are left-eyed, the MP is the clear choice. It will take the Leicavit baseplate rapid advance.

Great video.

And now in 2022 the new M6 ! For 5050€ and the MP, same price! And in 2022 the MA-Titan, 19 990€! And when a new version of the M3? Or the M4, M5 or M7? After all, why not?

What happened to these guys?

May we request a revisit of the comparison now that the M6 has been re-released?

If you are not a 35mm shooter why are you reviewing this lens?

D76 was a better choice for this test. Rodinal is easier, cheap and fast mix.. but in my experience it is not a good developer with high speed film. Thank you for this interesting video!

Extremely valuable tutorial! Well explained and thank you

And six years later, the price level for the M6 is itching so close to the price level of the MP that the cost advantage evaporates for the M6.

I got a new MP in black shall I sell my M6 TTL or keep it for investment ?

I remember TriX shot at 320 ASA and developed in Microdol-X. Silky smooth.

Why are Leicas made out of shitty materials like Zink or Brass? Should be aluminum or titanium.

In 2021 the price of a used M6 is so high it makes more sense to spend the money on a brand new MP that has never been used has a 5 year warranty?

Here in 2021 when the price of an m6 is almost the same as an mp

My results are quite different. Yesterday I browsed through the negatives of last year. The medium format ones especially. Just to mention, my rpx 400 are definitely not like yours, which are extremely flat . These are more like mine of the rollei 400s! But also my hp5+ as well as the Tmax look much different from yours! Do you develop Rodinal 1:25? I use (d) Rodinal 1:50 or 1:100 for films with more speed than 200. And the best outcomes I reach when I use fx39 with those films.

Great vid mate, I've always shot Tmax and HP5, the rollie here in NZ is quite a bit cheaper than my preferences so I might give it a go. Liked and subbed cheers

"all seriousness aside" 🤣

I like it. How much? Where can i buy ? Can it shot dry plate ? Thank you.

Tri-X looks awful in Rodinal. Try D-76 1:1.

I got a friend of mine who want to sale his LEICA M6 none TTL Model Black body only to me for £500.00 and is not Been used for a long time

you need to do more videos. pleeeeease

What??Lambo vs Prius?? is it make sense??

Very interesting video. Perhaps the Rodinal developer was not the best choice with 400 iso films. I think would be better a D76 in stock solution. Thank you very much about your video. For example in landscape photography I had bad results with rodinal/rollei 400 retro... The grain was like meteors. With the D76 no grain!.. So I think that with the modern films is very important the developer choice. In my opinion, Rodinal is very useful and cheap... but it is not good for all.

That is absolutely NOT how you load a Leica. Put the film between the three prongs and don't touch anything. Stop pushing the film down and through with your fingers the base plate is DESIGNED to do that for you. You also don't have to rewind it at all to make sure its "tight" wow that was cringe to watch

For beginners watching this, take note that unless you expose and develop EXACTLY like him you will get very different results. My results using D76 with the same films are polar opposite.

I feel shocked that you just let go of the winding lever every time you wind it, letting the tip of the lever to slam to the side of the hot shoe. I own 2 M6s and 2 MPs and I know they are really durable cameras, but I always make sure that I handle them gently every time I cock it through the winding lever by guiding the lever with my thumb back to the ready position. I think, that way, the camera will last longer and maintain its pristine look longer. Just my 2 cents, though; cheers!

It sounds nothing like a film M. Go watch a video with one. Shit.

4 years ago a roll of HP5 was 2,5 dollars. Right now it costs 5 to 6 euros i love the fucking free market

I've never understood the attraction of Rodinal - it produces a negative way too grainy for me. As far as Tri-X is concerned, the proper way to expose it is to divide your exposure into three ranges. In shade or other soft light, read the scene with an incident meter and set the camera to match. For medium contrast with soft shadows, read a shadow and set the camera to match. In bright sunlight, read a shadow and subtract one-half stop exposure. Develop in XTOL 1 + 3 and it will lay down for you. If your camera is set on autoexposure at ISO 400, it will underexpose Tri-X by almost two stops in high contrast lighting, and produce exactly the look that you got. The manufacturers rate film based on a standard exposure of a calibrated light source, not in a camera. Because Tri-X has much lower shadow response than other films, you have to base your exposure on shadows. After testing all of the films above except for Rollei RPX, I came to exactly the opposite conclusions. T-Max prints ugly. I could find nothing good to say about it. HP5 is excellent and produces silvery looking highlights which are pleasing on subjects such as animals with white fur. Delta 400 is good, but it's rendition of skin lacks feeling (an orange filter will bring it around, but imposes a two-stop penalty.) Tri-X works in almost every situation, especially when photographing people in uncontrolled situations.

Tri-X forever!

Hey, does the lens hood on your 35mm align straight or slightly off centre?

The real versus is M6 Leica Red Logo and MP no logo. The end.

I must admit my favorite has always been the Ilford delta 400 I love grains.

I was interested how it performs in 2-2.8 in exactly the kind of scene that you photographed below that overpass. My v1 summicron fringes like hell in these cirumstances and I can see that v2 does that too, but I think it's less present. Also corner sharpness seems to be better in 2.8.

Nice sample photographs! Thanks.

HP5 PLUS is the best b/w film!

Awesome video, very helpful. Thank you very much!

For avedon "american west" look. Which of these would you recommend ?

First of all, stop using Rodinal for high speed films. That's not what it was designed for. ID-11 or D-76 would be a better choice for an old standard. Xtol would probably be the best in a modern developer.

The best thing about the MP are that it can use the Leicavit ! The M6 can have problems with the lightmeter electronics and the lightmeter spot on the shutter curtain !

Thanks guys that was very helpful and informative.. there might be an M262 in my future..